Snaking a Right @ 15th - 11_27_2009 0900

Went out at 15th Street with Tyler the waterman! First wave I ended up snaking him and felt a little guilty. It was a nice right almost all the way into shore. Good little ride with some decent cutbacks. 4-5 footer.

Rest of the session was super slow. Close out swell coming mostly right at us. Tide was creeping to a low so everything shut down but not 8th Street! Going off with about 50 guys out. Peaky A-frame about 5-6 feet and going both ways really nicely. Some barrels...

Drifted over a little toawrds 8th and lined up finally on a nice left. 13th streetish. Good take-off, dodged some insiders and had a great off the lip rip. Should have paddled in...

...but didn't and ended up swimming cause my leeash broke on the next 6 foot right that was a huge closeout. Bailed, swam, swam some more, and called it a day.

Thanksgiving Double Header

Henneman's! Long wait but way worth it. A memorable left to start things off. A frame take-off and slight cover up section in the boils. Good speed awith a couple off the lips and finishing with a nice cutback. Combos...finally! This spot needs size for sure and low to medium tides work. Goodtime!
Water temp has dropped a couple degrees to 61-62. Slight wind chop but nothing to complain about at 11:00am.

BLACKS!!! Been a while and it showed! My arm came out immediately duck diving a hollow 6 footer. Bad, bad, bad timing. Caught a couple hollow lefts and then a right. Slight cover ups but very short rides cause it was too peaky out there. Second to last wave, a left, my arm came out again and this time it stayed out. Sitting in the impact zone with a disfunctional arm is not fun and I was lucky a set didn't roll through. I got to get this thing fixed. F*&K!!!
Surfed with David Z and he brought his NorCal charm with him. "Oh, I think something really big just swam underneath me. Probably just a seal, hahaha!" Awesome!
Sat mostly just north of the South peak. Wind was offshore, raining! Size was between 5-7 feet. Water was warm!!! Not the best Blacks has been but it was BLACKS!

6am @ 15th 2009_11_20

COLD! Chest high with long lags in between. Not very good lines but got a good inside last wave. Pelicans everywhere, and they were quite big. Dolphins showed as well. Finally a morning session.

Another morning start that included the 3-Day Walkers...

El Segundo 2009_11_15 0900

small stuff but perfect for getting rid of a hangover(hj not included). could see big potential for some sweet lines if it was bigger.

South Pillbox

South Side Pillbox...

Washing machine conditions with 3-5 ft close outs = bump on the head and a bruised elbow.

Today was a tough day getting back in the water but I feel great afterwards. Sunset brought on a good crowd.

Water temp was quite warm for November.