Monday, December 28, 2009

Project Pelican Completed!!!!! 2009_12_21st & 23rd

Hell yeah. Finally got the water camera jerry-rigged so that I can surf and pull the darn thing out easily/quickly enough to capture these magical waveriding creatures. You can see the difference...

Del Mar 26th Street
Was till using a rashguard to hold onto the camera. The casing almost twisted off and I would hav elost everything but luckily caught it before i had to duckdive a wave. Pictures were scetchy and only got one good pic of a pelican going by on the inside. Surf was small. About 1-3. Really really cold though this morning. No wind but plenty of chill. Oh dang, alomst forgot, two dolphins swam right underneath me and unfortunately the day was cloudy so I couldn't get a good underwater picture!



Solana Beach - South Pillbox

Jackpot!!! Pelicans all over the place. Used a strap this time to secure the camera and it was way easier then a rashguard. Beautiful shots and I think I was able to capture how big and majestic these creatures are. Seeing them go by on waves ten times there size you realize how graceful they are as well.
Surfwise, I was able to paddle and ride with the camera no problem. Caught two gnarly lefts that went about 50 yards to the inside. Big smile on my face afterwards. Great power and so clean.

Mission accomplished...


Solid afterstorm peaky surf. 6-8 feet. Wooooohooo!!!

Del Mar 29th Street HIGH TIDE w/Chris Sonney

2009_12_18 0730

Wow, launching off the stairs at 29th street!!! Sand is gone and tide was super gone. Nothing like waking yourself up with 59 degree water. Sunshine and calm winds allowed for a great session with a cool buddy. He's moving back up north so boo on that but will have to cruise up there to surf with him soon.

3-5 foot day. Occasional 6 footer but the tide was so high that everything was pretty mushy. North swell with loads of current so we ended up at 20th in about 45 mins. Geat last wave with a pretty good backside snap. Will rememver it for a while.

Big Monday!!! 2009_12_14 0830

Cold, cold, cold morning session. Waves were easily 10 feet and heavy. Paddle out wasn't too bad in the 4/3 but there was bit of a current going south. The usual spot was breaking and Secrets was peeling a bit on theoutside before mushing and reforming. Caught two excellent waves after finally getting the right position. A left and a right. Biggest of 2009 for sure and you can feel the power of the wave as offshore winds try to throw you off and cause a partially blind takeoff. Definitely raining after duckdives. Cool feeling.

Ok, enough of the sunshine and flowers part. 20 second period swell meant high disparity between what you think are set waves and what really are the set waves. Being greedy and catching the 7-8 footers left me on the inside of the clean-out set and I had to bail my board twice. (Darn shoulder!!!) First bail was cake but the second was...well...easily one of the roughest dives ever. SLAM! Ok that sucks...don't lose my breath...ok i'm upside down and about to get thrown down...wtf, i'm on rock and flattend out on my back...wave still pounding on me...relax, relax...pressure finally gone...crouch...still on rock...push off with my feet...ok...swim...swim...kick...still swimming...where's the surface...finally...gasp...breathe...find board...thank god there isn't another.

Needless to say I caught one more and called it a day...shaken but not disheartened. Turned out to be a confidence booster and looking forward to the next big session.

59 degrees. 7-8 ft with occasional 10 footer. Right was the better wave as usual. Lefts were lining up but the tide was getting too low and it was starting to close out. Glassy and calm, no wind. Cloudy.