Went out at 15th Street with Tyler the waterman! First wave I ended up snaking him and felt a little guilty. It was a nice right almost all the way into shore. Good little ride with some decent cutbacks. 4-5 footer.
Rest of the session was super slow. Close out swell coming mostly right at us. Tide was creeping to a low so everything shut down but not 8th Street! Going off with about 50 guys out. Peaky A-frame about 5-6 feet and going both ways really nicely. Some barrels...
Drifted over a little toawrds 8th and lined up finally on a nice left. 13th streetish. Good take-off, dodged some insiders and had a great off the lip rip. Should have paddled in...
...but didn't and ended up swimming cause my leeash broke on the next 6 foot right that was a huge closeout. Bailed, swam, swam some more, and called it a day.
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