Snaking a Right @ 15th - 11_27_2009 0900

Went out at 15th Street with Tyler the waterman! First wave I ended up snaking him and felt a little guilty. It was a nice right almost all the way into shore. Good little ride with some decent cutbacks. 4-5 footer.

Rest of the session was super slow. Close out swell coming mostly right at us. Tide was creeping to a low so everything shut down but not 8th Street! Going off with about 50 guys out. Peaky A-frame about 5-6 feet and going both ways really nicely. Some barrels...

Drifted over a little toawrds 8th and lined up finally on a nice left. 13th streetish. Good take-off, dodged some insiders and had a great off the lip rip. Should have paddled in...

...but didn't and ended up swimming cause my leeash broke on the next 6 foot right that was a huge closeout. Bailed, swam, swam some more, and called it a day.

Thanksgiving Double Header

Henneman's! Long wait but way worth it. A memorable left to start things off. A frame take-off and slight cover up section in the boils. Good speed awith a couple off the lips and finishing with a nice cutback. Combos...finally! This spot needs size for sure and low to medium tides work. Goodtime!
Water temp has dropped a couple degrees to 61-62. Slight wind chop but nothing to complain about at 11:00am.

BLACKS!!! Been a while and it showed! My arm came out immediately duck diving a hollow 6 footer. Bad, bad, bad timing. Caught a couple hollow lefts and then a right. Slight cover ups but very short rides cause it was too peaky out there. Second to last wave, a left, my arm came out again and this time it stayed out. Sitting in the impact zone with a disfunctional arm is not fun and I was lucky a set didn't roll through. I got to get this thing fixed. F*&K!!!
Surfed with David Z and he brought his NorCal charm with him. "Oh, I think something really big just swam underneath me. Probably just a seal, hahaha!" Awesome!
Sat mostly just north of the South peak. Wind was offshore, raining! Size was between 5-7 feet. Water was warm!!! Not the best Blacks has been but it was BLACKS!

6am @ 15th 2009_11_20

COLD! Chest high with long lags in between. Not very good lines but got a good inside last wave. Pelicans everywhere, and they were quite big. Dolphins showed as well. Finally a morning session.

Another morning start that included the 3-Day Walkers...

El Segundo 2009_11_15 0900

small stuff but perfect for getting rid of a hangover(hj not included). could see big potential for some sweet lines if it was bigger.

South Pillbox

South Side Pillbox...

Washing machine conditions with 3-5 ft close outs = bump on the head and a bruised elbow.

Today was a tough day getting back in the water but I feel great afterwards. Sunset brought on a good crowd.

Water temp was quite warm for November.

8th Street Del Mar

Checked Seascape, it was empty and thus only close outs around 4-5 ft.

Went to 8th Street hoping the tide wouldn't be too high and a nice 4 footer rolled through. A couple good waves breaking on the outside reef but only enough room to do a maneuver or two before mooshing out. Sunny and warm waters. Fullsuit was too much. Funny thing happened though...a little fish ran into my arm trying to get away from something.

Both Rights & Lefts out there.

Not bad for a lazy Sunday afternoon...last wave was sweet for the goofy one.

La Canada Street - North Rock

3-4 Waves with ~20 mins waits between sets. 4-5 ft.
Some cool stand up paddle boarders were out and it was kinda epic for them.

Mom finally got to see me surf since forever.
Last wave was awesome. Little cover up with a bit of a cutback finish. Love this place. Magical.