Cold, cold, cold morning session. Waves were easily 10 feet and heavy. Paddle out wasn't too bad in the 4/3 but there was bit of a current going south. The usual spot was breaking and Secrets was peeling a bit on theoutside before mushing and reforming. Caught two excellent waves after finally getting the right position. A left and a right. Biggest of 2009 for sure and you can feel the power of the wave as offshore winds try to throw you off and cause a partially blind takeoff. Definitely raining after duckdives. Cool feeling.
Ok, enough of the sunshine and flowers part. 20 second period swell meant high disparity between what you think are set waves and what really are the set waves. Being greedy and catching the 7-8 footers left me on the inside of the clean-out set and I had to bail my board twice. (Darn shoulder!!!) First bail was cake but the second was...well...easily one of the roughest dives ever. SLAM! Ok that sucks...don't lose my breath...ok i'm upside down and about to get thrown down...wtf, i'm on rock and flattend out on my back...wave still pounding on me...relax, relax...pressure finally gone...crouch...still on rock...push off with my feet...ok...swim...swim...kick...still swimming...where's the surface...finally...gasp...breathe...find board...thank god there isn't another.
Needless to say I caught one more and called it a day...shaken but not disheartened. Turned out to be a confidence booster and looking forward to the next big session.
59 degrees. 7-8 ft with occasional 10 footer. Right was the better wave as usual. Lefts were lining up but the tide was getting too low and it was starting to close out. Glassy and calm, no wind. Cloudy.
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