53 - 16 - 39

In an uber-amateur attempt to time the swell I used my new waterproof watch this session.  Every 23 mins a nice set came through on a 200 degree 18 sec period south swell.  At 53 and 16 I was right on for the left.  39 proved to be even more perfect except for the fact that I was watching from the back as a grommet put 4 solid turns into it!!!

Secret Spot in LA???

Well as secret as your gonna get in LA.  Surfing a new spot is always quite special, especially if you get it all to yourself!  Once again I find another right in LA.  Oh, and fishing is on too!

Lot has changed since this picture was taken but the break remains the same.  A right right in front of the little green roofed house.