53 - 16 - 39

In an uber-amateur attempt to time the swell I used my new waterproof watch this session.  Every 23 mins a nice set came through on a 200 degree 18 sec period south swell.  At 53 and 16 I was right on for the left.  39 proved to be even more perfect except for the fact that I was watching from the back as a grommet put 4 solid turns into it!!!

Secret Spot in LA???

Well as secret as your gonna get in LA.  Surfing a new spot is always quite special, especially if you get it all to yourself!  Once again I find another right in LA.  Oh, and fishing is on too!

Lot has changed since this picture was taken but the break remains the same.  A right right in front of the little green roofed house.

Topanga Head High? Well Kind Of...

So, its windy, and pretty $mall and $hitty at Sunset in LA. So my buddy Jake and I decide to give Topanga a look-see because it has some good calming kelp effect there. The second we arrive a nice chest high wave rolls thru and this dude, the only one out, is on it and ripping down the line. We don't even wait for a second set. We pass all the lame rocks on low tide and start to paddle out and the same surfer gets another wave and its almost head high. My buddy and I exchange a glance and start laughing our a$$es off. This dude/surfer was a 2 foot nothin' grom/surfer. The kid's board was only 3 feet long! Needless to say longboards were the right call and my buddy Jake busted a reverse take off with his 9'2"!!! Good sesh due to low expectations!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO THE ONE AND ONLY ;-)

There are only two things in this world that give me a sense of peace and belonging. The love of my life Bel will forever be number one and the other is what this blog is all about. The love for Mother Ocean. A love that has been developed over many years and has taught me to dive head into my passions when the ride looks awesomely steep and hollow(occasionally making the best of mushy and foamy times as well). As a surfer we all look for the endless ride(left!) that will lead us to a state of nirvana, a state of complete and utter stokeness to where you walk onto the beach afterwards, sit down, and realize just how darn thankful you are! The universe just aligned perfect for me.

I've found that endless ride and I want to wish her the best on her most awesome birthday! Happy birthday my love! That silly grin I have on my face when I come out of the water will always be because I'm thinking "I get to come home to the most beautiful thing I've ever seen and felt in my life!"